Uruguayan coastal town, Piriapolis.

Despite its small size, Uruguay has much to offer would-be expats looking for a new country to call home. With a stable economic and political system that is weathering the global economic downturn quite well, plus a steadily growing tourism sector, Uruguay is becoming a popular choice for North Americans and Europeans who are less than eager to invest in property back home. South African investors have also taken a liking to Uruguay as a stable place to invest in property with a climate very similar to home.  As Uruguay’s global popularity continues to grow, so does its property value—especially in jet-set tourist destinations like Punta Del Este. Savvy investors are currently honing in on places just outside of these popular areas, resulting in an increase in property sales in less-publicized, yet still desirable areas such as Piriapolis, a charming port town located just a short drive from Punta Del Este. For investors looking to live in Uruguay part-time, part of the appeal of buying land near a tourist destination is the prospect of renting the property out as vacation rentals to visitors looking for non-hotel accommodation.

South African citizen, David Brown, is one such investor. He recently purchased a home in a development just outside of Piriapolis. His work schedule is such that he is on assignment for up to 6 weeks at a time, followed by a 2-week break. With his new home being situated in a prime location with views of the mountains, the ocean, and the city of Piriapolis, he plans to occasionally rent it to vacationers in his absence. But the potential rental revenue is just one of many reasons on a very detailed list of why Mr. Brown chose to purchase real estate in Uruguay. Listening to Mr. Brown, one gets the sense that he has spent more than a few casual hours researching his overseas investment options. In a gentle, yet matter-of-fact tone, Mr. Brown rattles off a laundry list of the factors he took into account when deciding to buy his home. First on that list is safety. He readily quotes stats he has come across in his research, and was especially impressed with Uruguay’s rankings in the Global Peace Index. He explains, “It is ranked 24^th on the 2010 Global Peace Index, which is higher than the United States. It’s higher than the United Kingdom, and it’s higher than my native country [South Africa, which rates 121^st]. And I wanted to come to a country where I could put my roots down, invest, and start a home–start a family.”

Sugar Loaf Mountain provides mountainous scenery near Piriapolis.

As important as safety is, especially to someone looking to settle down and start a family, it was not the only reason Mr. Brown chose Uruguay as his new place of residence. In Uruguay he was able to fulfill his desire for a house surrounded by a beautiful natural landscape–and by purchasing from an eco-friendly development he hopes to help ensure the continued environmental health of his newfound home. “There’s no interruption to the features we have here: we have a sea view, we have a forest view, we have a mountain view, we have a view of the nearby town.” This combination of safety and natural beauty was something Mr. Brown did not find in the other places he considered. “Before coming to Uruguay, I’d considered the United States, I’d considered the United Kingdom, I’d considered Australia, and all in all, Uruguay offered the most in terms of safety and security as well as value for money,” he says, noting that his new home often feels like “a private retreat.” When he needs the amenities of town, he heads to nearby Piriapolis, where he says can easily find everything he needs, from restaurants and nightlife to groceries, markets, and shopping of every sort. He has noticed that the cost of living is very reasonable in Uruguay and notes that, “most of the items in Uruguay are cheaper than [comparable] items in South Africa.”

Mr. Brown has also been impressed with Uruguay’s infrastructure. “If I compare it to the infrastructure in South Africa, I notice that in Uruguay the roads are in very good condition,” he says. He happily gives some specifics: “The rail networks work. The electricity doesn’t go off—there are no power cuts. The water connection is good; there is nothing wrong with the water. And also all the government entities like your hospitals and your municipalities and things like that, all are up and running and are functioning.” While these may seem like the most basic of public services, they are tremendously important determinants of quality of life in a country–not to mention their importance as factors in property value. This is something Mr. Brown knows from experience. He continues, “That is a very big plus coming from South Africa—that everything from the government’s side of things actually works properly. And furthermore the government is actually encouraging foreign investment.”

A simplified climate zone map with Uruguay and South Africa labeled. Country borders are not marked.

While Mr. Brown is happy that many aspects of life in Uruguay are different than in his native country, there’s one thing he is glad is quite similar: the warm climate.  “From someone coming from South Africa, the weather here in Uruguay is very much the same as the in Cape Town; Uruguay is on the same latitude as South Africa, so the weather’s the same,” he says.  Located within the temperate zone, Uruguay’s climate does not feature extreme temperatures in any season. Uruguayan summers are warm, but tempered by the ocean breezes. Winters are cool and damp, but never extremely cold. Because the climate is mild, tourists visit Uruguay all year round, but by far the busiest season for tourism is summer, which is from December to March. Mr. Brown has found travel between Uruguay and South Africa to be quite easy with a couple options leaving from Johannesburg International Airport and connecting through either Sao Paolo or Buenos Aires. He has flown these routes several time, and has had no problems with the flight connections, noting that the layover time is usually between two and three hours.

Due to the ease and safety of travel to Uruguay, Mr. Brown is confident that his property in Uruguay will hold its value well, and that he will be able to rent his home as a vacation property to vacationers from South Africa (and beyond) for the months that he will not be living in it. But more importantly, Mr. Brown is confident in that he has found a safe, secure, and comfortable place to call home that will serve him well now and for many years to come.

Uruguay is an increasingly popular retirement destination.

Years ago, if you had made it to Uruguay for a visit it was mostly likely for a quick stop with a cruise ship. Lately, tourism and expat flow towards Uruguay is becoming more and more popular with people from Europe, Canada and the U.S. Families are relocating in search of a safer, more dependable lifestyle out of the lime-light of larger countries involved in political controversy. Seniors, as well, are choosing more and more often to retire in Uruguay to enjoy their golden years.

Retiring in Uruguay has become quite popular and it is easy to see why. Achieving residency in Uruguay is relatively easy considering how complicated it can be in other countries. No visa is required to enter Uruguay as of yet, and the government system is fairly well administrated. The living conditions are pleasant. Tap water is potable, transportation is good, streets are well maintained, and highways are modern. There are no common natural disasters and no political strife. The economy is stable and the people are friendly, accepting, and laid back. It has recently been considered the safest South American country. Although crime has risen just slightly, still the country is very secure. Education is great, and health care is available to the public. There are also private medical centers which offer top of the line medical coverage for a reasonable price compared to what retirees might pay some place else. Uruguay experiences four seasons, but always enjoys a pretty moderate temperature. Also, Uruguay does not tax foreign income, so pension, social security, and any money that is generated outside of Uruguay is not taxed in Uruguay and therefore does not need to be reported to the Uruguayan tax authorities. These are just some of the benefits Uruguay offers. Uruguay is also full of gorgeous places.

A quaint street view in Colonia.

Colonia is a cobble-stoned, quaint town draped in buganvilias and legends. With a population of approximately 21,000, it is relaxed and quiet, with all the comforts of a city. The view from the old section of town is just beautiful. The main tourist center is full of darling bed and breakfasts, restaurants, cafés and art galleries. A lot of artists choose to move here because of the romantic air and rich history. The most convenient part is, Buenos Aires is just a short ferry ride across the river.

Punta del Este on the far eastern coast of Uruguay and is a haven for retirees and expats from all over the world. During the summer months (January and February) the city explodes. Fantastic five- star hotels speckle the city, boutiques line the streets, and restaurants offer delicious and varied cuisine. There is a considerable foreign community there all year round, but in the winter the general population drops substantially. It becomes a tranquil, pleasant place with lovely beaches to stroll. Jose Ignacio is a lovely neighboring city, but requires a higher budget and after summer, the community nearly shuts down.

Piriapolis is another well-rounded beachside town in eastern Uruguay. The population is about 7,500 year round, but the summer months bring thousands more. The houses are built on hills and the view overlooking the ocean cove by the city is breathtaking. This is a great place for families in summer, and a perfect place for grandparents.

Lastly, the country´s capital city of Montevideo is a great place to retire for those still up for some action and city lights. Pocitos, Punta Carretas, and Carrasco are three really nice neighborhoods. Pocitos Beach is one of main beaches in the city and is always full of people of all ages out enjoying the day. It is also home to several universities and language schools. The houses are old and historic and the area is close to almost anywhere you might want to go in the city. Punta Carretas is right next to Pocitos. It boasts a large, well-kept shopping mall, which is built in a building that once was a prison. The houses in this neighborhood are large and feature distinctive characteristics. This area also has extremely convenient access to places all over the city.

The famous Carrasco Hotel & Casino in Montevideo's Carrasco District.

Carrasco is a very pretty and dignified neighborhood on the brink of the city limits. Some of the most famous restaurants in the city are located around here.  It is its own little community and because it is farther from center city, life is quiet and relaxing. Almost all the houses have large yards and little barceque cabins behind the house for the standard Uruguayan ¨asado¨ or social barbeque. People walk most places or ride bikes. It is ideal for families or senior citizens.

Uruguay is relatively cheap, especially regarding real estate, so a lot of people in Uruguay enjoy the luxury of having several homes around the country. Montevideo is a cosmopolitan city with a lot to offer. There are fantastic restaurants and impressive museums. The city’s main theaters are top-notch and host artists from around the world. However, it would be a real shame to not be able to take advantage of the country´s beautiful coastline and fabulous beaches. Uruguay´s countryside is also serene and lovely with rolling hills and endless green pastures. Some people opt to have a little place in each area—a great option that is financially feasible due to the relatively low cost of land. Uruguay´s low prices are great for real estate investments and business endeavors as well. No matter where you choose to settle, a share in land used to keep livestock (Uruguay´s main industry) or purchasing heads of cattle are great, low-stress ways to secure a comfortable income in your retirement. Purchasing a house in one of the several beach communities along Uruguay´s coast can be, too, if you are up for renting it out. The summer season here is one massive tourist movement and renting out a property is all but guaranteed to be lucrative.

The verdict is in: the pilgrimage to Uruguay is gaining speed. Whatever the ambiance you seek, Uruguay has something on offer.

Unlike other South and Central American countries where many people speak English, Spanish language skills are an absolute necessity in Uruguay. Learning Spanish was a necessity, not a choice. A Google search delivered me to Spanish Uruguay.

This father-son operation has an interesting business model. They arrange for Spanish lessons, as well as temporary housing while you are in Uruguay. If you have some knowledge of Spanish, their website offers an online placement test to determine your appropriate level.  Spanish Uruguay holds classes in Atlantida and Montevideo. Having spent a good portion of my life in large cities like New York and Boston, I yearned for the tranquility of a small, seaside resort. I chose Atlantida.

For an extra fee, they will pick you up at the airport and drive you to your destination. If you do not speak any Spanish, this is an invaluable service.  The real estate office is your first stop, before you go to your apartment. There are many papers to sign, and having someone act as a translator helps you avoid unnecessary confusion.

Spanish Uruguay holds classes at the Atlantida Country Club.

Spanish Uruguay holds its classes at the Atlantida Country Club, a throwback to the suburban resorts of the 1950s. Upon entering the building with its old-fashioned ballroom, you understand why people compare Uruguay to “Eisenhower’s America.”  Classes are small, personable, and the most fun you will ever have studying a language.  For example, one day the professor, Juan Polito, came in after watching a video of the TV series In Plain Sight. Juan is fluent in English, but he could not understand the meaning of this term. We spent part of the class trying to use our limited Spanish to explain the concept.

Spanish Uruguay values practical experience as well as in-class study. After learning about foods, we went to the supermarket to identify certain products. Field trips to local sites around the city are another aspect of the program.

While some language schools require you to purchase a language textbook, Juan copies material from a variety of language books and prints them out for his students. For the most part, he uses texts that emphasize Uruguayan Spanish, but he often explains the different pronunciations and word usages found in other Latin American countries.

The ability to speak the local language is an invaluable benefit in any country, but especially in Uruguay. To get the most out of your experience, I recommend taking the time to study the language.

The SODRE choir sings in celebration of Uruguay's bicentennial.

This year has been a big one for culture and entertainment in Uruguay. Uruguayans seem to be increasingly interested in music, art, and the like, and there is never a shortage of options for a fun way to spend an evening out. Here is a look at what´s happening in Uruguay´s SODRE, the country´s foundation dedicated to art and culture.

First, as the Bicentennial year comes to a close, Uruguayans are still celebrating. Between November 19th and December 21^st, the SODRE choir will present 7 shows around the country celebrating Uruguay´s 200th birthday. Concerts will be held in Minas, Durazno, San Carlos and Mercedes as well as three concerts in Montevideo, Uruguay´s capital city. The program will include a cappella selections by national composers as well as classic opera pieces. The choir will also present several selections from Carmina Burana, which should be a real treat. The SODRE choir performed Carl Orff´s entire masterpiece earlier in the year and wowed a full house.

French film, "La Vie en Rose" will play as part of the film series, "Cine Arte del SODRE Otras Mujeres."

Also, on November 7th, the film series entitled ¨Cine Arte del SODRE Otras Mujeres¨ debuted its first film in Montevideo´s Nelly Goitiño Theater. The series is the last of three this year dedicated to women in film.  Estación Central, directed by Brazilian born Walter Salles, was the first of six films to show throughout the months of November and December. The idea behind the event is to highlight women (both fictional and real life characters) through film who have built reputation–not as symbols of beauty and sexuality—but rather as characters who embody the more complex facets of femininity. Each film is carefully chosen to recognize women who made important changes in history, symbolize the strength of women as they struggle through life or demonstrate intense defiance of social norms. The films are shown on Monday evenings. A complete screening schedule is listed below. Note: list also includes the November shows, which will have already finished at press time.

Prima Ballerina Sofía Sajac will retire at the end of the year.

And finally, The Nutcracker is coming to Uruguay! Just because the holiday season is sunny, warm and beautiful in Uruguay doesn´t mean that you have to miss out on your holiday traditions while you are away enjoying the southern summer. Julio Bocca, renowned artistic director of the national ballet company in Montevideo, has announced his presentation of Tchaikovsky’s ¨El Cascanueces¨ (¨The Nutcracker¨ in Spanish). The production will be entirely Uruguayan, honing the national talents of choreographer Silvia Bazilis, costume designer Nelson Mancebo and puppet artist Martín Romanelli. It will be Prima Ballerina Sofía Sajac´s swan song, as she is retiring at the end of this year. Shows start December 9th and go through December 20th.

Screenings for ¨Otras Mujeres¨ Series

November 2011

11/14- La Historía Oficial (Argentina)

Dir.Luis Puenzo

Norma Aleandro, Héctor Alterio, Chunchuna Villafañe, Chela Ruiz, Hugo Arana, Guillermo Battaglia

Showing in Auditoiro Nelly Goitiño

6pm-8pm

11/21- Norma Rae ( USA)

Dir.Martin Ritt

Sally Field, Beau Bridges, Ron Leibman, Pat Hingle, Gail Strickland.

Auditorio Nelly Goitiño 6pm-8pm

11/28  Julia ( USA)

Dir. Fred Zinnemann

Jane Fonda, Vanessa Redgrave, Jason Robards, Maximilian Schell, Hal Holbrook, Rosemary Murphy y Meryl Streep.

Auditorio Nelly Goitiño 6pm-8.10pm

December 2011

12/5- Frida( USA)

Dir. Julie Taymor

Salma Hayek, Alfred Molina, Geoffrey Rush, Antonio Banderas, Ashley Judd, Edward Norton, Roger Rees, Diego Luna, Mía Maestro.

Auditorio Nelly Goitiño 6pm-8.10pm

12/12- La Vie en Rose ( France)

Dir. Olivier Dahan

Marion Cotillard, Gérard Depardieu, Sylvie Testud.

Auditorio Nelly Goitiño 6pm-8.30pm

* Tickets for all of the SODRE´s productions can be purchased at any red UTS location.

( http://reduts.com.uy/)

Tickets are also available at the theater Auditorio Nelly Goitiño, located on 18 de Julio and Río Branco.

18 de Julio 930,

phone- 2901 2850,

M-F 3pm-8.30pm

Auditorio Nacional Adela Reta,

Andes y Mercedes,

phone-2900 7084,

M-Sat 1pm-7pm

Uruguay is attracting growing numbers of ex-pats from around the world.

Immigration to Uruguay is on the rise as the rest of the world is beginning to see what Uruguayans have known for decades: nestled between the mountains and the sea lies a tranquil country that holds the delicate balance between historic and modern, urban and rural, accessible and away-from-it-all. With many in the Baby Boomer generation diving into the golden years of retirement with money to spend and energy to travel (not to mention a slumping economy back home) they are thinking outside their home country when considering where to live and invest as their working days wind down. But Uruguay is not just for the Boomers! Its solid economy, stable political climate, and enthusiastic encouragement of foreign trade make it a great place for those looking to lay down roots and build a life.  With the big-city pulse of Montevideo, the chic vibe of Punta del Este, the mellow small-town feel of Piriapolis, and everything in between, Uruguay packs a lot into such a small country. The ex-pats who move here come for reasons as diverse as the country itself.

Meet Smith and Nancy Holt from Colorado Springs, Colorado. They maintain a home in Colorado, but recently bought a second home in a development just outside of Piriapolis here in Uruguay. Colorado can get very cold from November-March, but with a second residence in Uruguay, the Holts have the perfect place to escape the winter chill. Smith and Nancy each have several reasons for choosing Uruguay. For Nancy, Uruguay’s charm has much to do with the atmosphere. She says, “The climate is very, very enjoyable. It’s warm without being humid, and the people are very friendly. We just like that kind of an atmosphere, where we can come and just relax.” Smith is quick to add that security was a big sticking point for him—especially with a winter home that is not inhabited year-round. “If you’re only going to be here three or four months out of the year, you need to be concerned about a house anywhere—not just in Uruguay. And Uruguay, relative to most other places, certainly is very safe. But still, you like to know that your house is being looked after,” he says. The Holts were able to find this sense of safety and security within their development, and can be away from their Uruguayan house for several months at a time without concern. And about the house itself: the Holts did not settle for anything less than excellence when it came to design and construction. They were able to get the quality of house they would have expected in America with beautiful architecture designed for ease and comfort in its setting. When asked what she likes best about her house, Nancy is describes many features one would expect to find in a fine modern dwelling in an ocean-view development stateside. “Well, it’s just very open, we have lots of light. It’s very cozy, but at the same time is feels spacious. I like this kind of décor where you have lots of white and the big windows that we can look out and the windows we can open, so we have lots of ventilation. The house to me is just perfectly, perfectly comfortable,” she says. Smith adds, “We’ve only run the air conditioner up here on the upper floor one day, because we just open up the windows and the deck door and we get a nice breeze up here. We really prefer the fresh air from the outside. And as Nancy said: beautiful views and lots of light. We like sunlight—a bright airy place, and that’s exactly what this is. Construction is excellent—we’re very pleased with the house.”

Piriapolis, Uruguay.

Beyond enjoying their home, when in Uruguay the Holts are continually amazed by the convenience and accessibility of the town close to where they live. Unlike in many Latin American countries, in Uruguay it is easy to find the familiar comforts of home: fully stocked groceries, easy access to shopping essentials, and small luxuries like high-quality salon and beauty services.  Smith raves about the two towns closes to their house: Piriapolis and Punta del Este. He says, “There’s a great supermarket. We just came back from one of the meat markets, and the prices blow you away they’re so low. We have access to everything…and with downtown Punta Del Este only 35 minutes away, we lacked for nothing since we’ve been here, and don’t expect to have a problem.” Uruguay is a meat-lover’s paradise, and the Holts have been quite impressed with the quality of meat available for such low prices. Smith says, “If you go to the Carniceria—the meat market—they’ve got excellent beef, chicken, at rock bottom prices. Or you can go down to the port and get a really superb fish at prices that I don’t think Americans realize exist.” Nancy could hardly believe that they got two grass-fed rib-eye steaks for $2.60 USD. Nancy and Smith have a great time at their local farmer’s market, and Nancy loves the huge selection of produce and meat. “It’s a fabulous market. Anything that you can find in the states, you can find there. The vegetables, the fruits and everything is there that you expect to see in a large supermarket in the United States,” she says. Smith chimes in, “Quality is excellent. You can’t find better quality produce than what exists here in the farmers markets. And the produce in the supermarkets is good, too.”

A selection of farmer's market produce from Piriapolis.

Beside the excellent food options, Nancy recalls some of her favorite places to go for a relaxing day on the town; “We’ve gone to the beach, we’ve gone downtown and had coffee on the rambla, and I think I’ve had the best manicure and pedicure I’ve ever had. I got it done at Hotel Argentina, and I have to say it was superb. I can’t say enough about how much we enjoy just going down and walking on the rambla because it’s just such a beautiful oceanfront area.”

The Holts have taken advantage of their easy access to the rest of Uruguay with day trips through the countryside. Smith was pleased to find that Uruguay is not only beautiful, but also easy to navigate; “The roads are excellent; there’s never a situation where you are far away from a gas station. There’s really very little difference as far as access and ease of movement between what one finds here and what one finds in the United States.” This ease of travel is great for the Holts as they are quite active and enjoy exploring the natural beauty of the varied Uruguayan landscape as well as the man-made attractions of the cities and towns.

And what about navigating the cultural atmosphere of Uruguay as Americans not fluent in Spanish? Smith asserts, “We have found the only thing we deal with—and we’re dealing with it very well I think—is that there’s a language difference. But we’re working on our Spanish, and we’ve found that that is not a barrier in any way, shape or fashion, either. People are very tolerant and will work with you.”

As more Baby Boomers like the Holts discover Uruguay’s ease of living and natural beauty, residency requests for the country have increased three-fold. While the application process has become slower due to the influx of applications, it is still quite simple to apply for residency. Uruguay does not have immigration quotas, nor does it discretionally reject applicants. Uruguay’s residency requirements are easy to fulfill for most people coming from North America and Europe, with the basics being: a clean police record, an income of at least 500 USD per month, and a Uruguayan address where the applicant stays for over 6 months per year. For more information on residency requirements, see figure 1.

Figure 1. Major Uruguayan Residency Requirements

With the increase of applications, Uruguay has established some new precautions to make sure the ease of immigration is not abused. The three main red flags for the immigration department are: phony proofs of income, gaps in police record information, and those looking to gain residency as a means of acquiring a Uruguayan passport in order to gain entry to another country they could not enter with a passport from their home country. To prevent these abuses, the Uruguayan immigration department is beefing up its system, requiring better documentation of income and clean police records, and requiring applicants to leave their homes in Uruguay for no longer than six months at a time. Even this slower application process does not result in a delay of access to the country. Upon submission of the residency application, applicants are issued a “temporary cédula” or temporary national ID card.

Uruguay’s immigration and residency policy is defined by an ethos of hospitality to foreigners looking for a new place to call home. As long as an applicant can meet the simple and relatively minimal requirements set forth by the Uruguayan government, he or she is all but guaranteed residency. With the easy lifestyle, political and economic stability, and the hassle-free immigration process, Uruguay’s North American and European ex-pat population is likely to rise even higher in the coming years.

You see, Uruguayans know their cow.  Eating out or buying from a butcher requires a basic understanding of the different cuts—and their Spanish names! The following chart can serve as a guide:

Instead of ordering a ‘steak’, many Uruguayans go for a popular cut called tira de asado.  This is a typical cut from the Rio de la Plata region which includes portions of rib bone, generally cooked well done (bien hecho in Spanish) over a grill heated by red-hot coals. Asado is also the Uruguayan term for the social event of having a barbeque. When people get together for an asado, this is an opportunity to stand around a fire, talk, and have fun. Any type of meat can be grilled at an asado, though a couple of kilos of tiras de asado are always present.

Other popular cuts are the lomo, entrecot, and bife de vacio.  These cuts differ in their toughness and fat content, and consequently are cooked differently.  The lomo, or tenderloin, is a prime cut with very little fat, generally served rare, or jugoso, in Spanish.  Another prime cut, the entrecot, is often cut with a strip of fat, and thus is best served medium rare, or a punto, in Spanish.   The bife de vacio, or flank steak, is a bit tougher than the entrecot or lomo, and is thus a cheaper and more ordinary cut.

Diners enjoy a meat-heavy meal at Parrilladas at El Mercado del Puerto.

A quality steak can be found at many parrilladas across Montevideo.   One of the most traditional and picturesque places for meat-lovers is the Port Market, or El Mercado del Puerto.  Saturday lunches at the Port Market are a classic excursion for Uruguayans and tourists alike.  The market offers many parrilladas in the same place, and customers can peruse the grills before deciding on a place to eat.  Beyond the market, nearly every neighborhood in Montevideo has a good quality parillada; some are quite quaint and enjoyable, so it’s worth exploring the varied options.

Perhaps the closest Uruguayan equivalent to the American steak is the churrasco, although there are some noticeable differences in style. The churrasco is a thinly sliced piece of beef, preferably lomo, generally pan fried, not grilled. It is commonly served much like an American hamburger: in a bun with lettuce, tomato and a myriad of toppings, such as egg, bacon, ham, olives, red peppers. When served this way, it is affectionately called chivito.  The quality of the chivito depends on the freshness of the ingredients, and whether it is served with lomo or a less-expensive cut.  Uruguayans are picky about that too.  Some of the more renowned chivito restaurants are El Tinkal, next to the US Embassy, La Vitaminica in Pocitos, La Negra Tomasa in Buceo and the Chiviteria Marcos chain.

Chivitas with all the accoutrements.

The accompaniment?  Well, the attraction is the meat, so the salads are often low-key.  French-fries are always an option, as are potatoes, yams or red peppers on the grill.  Part of the joy of eating out at parrilladas is the ambience of a barbeque.  At any point during your meal you can take your drink and visit the grill to chat with the parrillero (griller) and see what he is cooking. Talking to those masters of the grill is probably the best way to learn about the famous Uruguayan beef.

Montevideo's Uruguayan American School

Uruguayan American School

The Uruguayan American School (UAS) was founded in 1958 as a private college preparatory school. It was started by American citizens living in Uruguay, with the goal of providing the same quality and variety of education offered in the United States. It accepts approximately 300 new international and Uruguayan students each year in kindergarten through 12^th grade. The UAS works to make sure that every student graduating from the school is prepared to attend university by instilling high standards of academic excellence and a wide diversity of knowledge. UAS is non-profit and supports its self through tuition. The 7.5 acre campus is located in Montevideo´s Carrasco neighborhood, a beautiful and safe suburb of the city. Facilities include: two science labs, a computer lab, a music room (not so common here in Uruguay), an auditorium, a library, a regulation soccer field, basket ball courts and three playgrounds.

For more information, an entirely bilingual website is available at http://www.uas.edu.uy/

The British School Crest

The British School

Also located in Carrasco, The British School celebrates its Founders Day on October 8th. The school was started in 1908 with the objective of creating bonds between Uruguayan and British children, so as to instill friendship and understanding of other cultures. The school moved through two campuses before finally reaching its permanent home on ten hectares of land in Carrasco in 1958. In 1977, it was among the first in the world to introduce the International Baccalaureate program. It now boasts over 700 children in the elementary and middle school and almost 600 in the high school.

The British School is one of the most popular international schools in the country, known for its quality education and excellent facilities. The school offers programs for both summer and winter, allowing the family members of students to enroll in an activities program including free access to swimming pools, gyms, tennis courts and other amenities depending on the season. There is also usually a summer camp during February, however this year due to construction on the campus there will be no summer camp.

For current information regarding tuition and programs, contact: adm@british.edu.uy

For all other information and a complete bilingual website go to http://www.british.edu.uy

Scuola Italiana

The front of the Italian international school in Montevideo.

The Italian international school in Montevideo, Scuola Italiana, was founded in September of 1886. Like most of the others schools on this list, it is located in the Carrasco district. This school’s stellar reputation stems in large part from its language program. Scuola Italiana offers classes from nursery school through 12th grade and encourages tri-cultural and tri-lingual studies (in English, Spanish, and Italian), with English studies starting at the age of three. The school’s academic program is organized by the Alianza Cultural Uruguay – Estados Unidos ( Uruguay- U.S. Cultural Alliance).

For in depth information: http://www.scuolaitaliana.edu.uy

The page is available in Spanish and Italian.

Lycée Francais

The Lycee Francais school logo

The French school is located on the coast of Montevideo´s Buceo neighborhood. Some of the perks of its waterside location include views of the port from the campus, and the unique ability for students to participate in sailing classes as a part of the curriculum. The striking school building was erected in 2001. The Lycée is one of the 460 learning establishments spread out over 130 countries that comprise the French language learning network.

The school offers the International Baccalaureate program, which affords the students graduating from Lycée Francais the opportunity to qualify for study at the most prestigious universities in Europe and around the world. The education at the Lycée is based on a trilingual learning system. Each student graduates speaking perfect French and Spanish, with high proficiency in English. Students may also opt to take a fourth language: Latin, Portuguese or Italian.

For more information and a bilingual website in both French and Spanish, visit: http://www.lf.edu.uy

The Dutch international school.

Deutsche Schule

This German International School was established in 1857, originally as a parochial school for the Evangelical community from Germany. It was first located in the old city, and held only 17 students. Since then, its size has changed dramatically! Now the school has two braches: one in the Pocitos neighborhood and another in the Carrasco district. English is introduced into the curriculum at age three, and students have the option of earning a certificate of English Proficiency from Cambridge University.

Check out the Deutsche Schule website for more information: http://www.dsm.edu.uy/

Condombe drummers fill the streets with sound and color.

With warm breezes finally hitting the coasts of Uruguay, people are heading out to the beaches, enjoying long walks along the ramblas, and dining under spring skies. If you are living in Uruguay already, you have most likely also started to hear the throbbing, passionate sounds of drumming as dusk begins to fall. This is the sound of Candombe, the heartbeat of Uruguay.

Candombe is a form of music common in Uruguay and neighboring countries Argentina and Brazil. It bears the most important influence in Uruguay, however, so much so it has been named a piece of intangible cultural heritage (ICH) by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). Candombe’s origins lie in African Bantu traditions brought to the coasts of the Río de la Plata by African slaves during the years of colonization in South America. Slaves from the region that is now Angola were taken to Brazil, Cuba and Argentina; with them traveled the music of their homeland. In each new destination the music developed in a slightly different way, but always maintained the same basic roots. Candombe drumming originally served as a major form of communication for the arriving slaves in Uruguay. Its combination of dance and religion made it a valuable way for people far from home to connect to their heritage and history. Candombe was first officially recorded as a practice towards the end of 18th century. Over the years, this drum music has become not only an important part of the Afro-Uruguayan culture, but also a staple in the Uruguayan culture at large. Many sources agree that Candombe strongly influenced the creation of Tango, the world-famous genre of music from the region. Years ago, the Candombe players would meet in designated places call tangós to play. It is no mystery how Tango took on its immortal name.

The hides of the candombe drums are warmed around a fire to prepare them for playing.

Today Candombe makes up a huge part of the culture. As summer approaches, there will be competitions and gatherings in the streets. The main Candombe neighborhoods in Uruguay are el Barrio Sur and Palermo. These two neighborhoods gave birth to las comparsas (drumming groups) and continue to nurture them to this day. Candombe uses three different kinds of tambores (drums) to make up a complete comparsa: chico, repique and piano. Before playing, the drums are placed around a large fire to warm the hides for ideal playing conditions. And then the fun begins!

In February during Carnaval, you will find the largest Candombe exhibition in Uruguay in the Sur and Palermo neighborhoods. It is called Las Llamadas (“The Calls” in English). This is a giant parade where dozens of Candombe clubs come together to strut their stuff and compete for the prize for the best comparsa. Each group has no less than 50 drummers and usually also a large group of dancers, flag twirlers and baton throwers. It is quite a spectacle, and always delivers a great time.

Candombe drums are handmade by serious craftsmen in Uruguay.

For those interested in learning to play Candombe, there are many schoola throughout the country. Tamborilearte ( http://www.tamborilearte.com.uy/) is one of the most popular. They offer workshops for schools and businesses, as well as individual lessons. This particular school offers shows for hire as well. They performed this year for the 3rd Latin American Pesticide Residue Workshop on Food and Environment in Montevideo.

Candombe has helped generations of people connect with neighbors and create lasting bonds among people, starting with the slaves brought over from Africa, and continuing on to the diverse Uruguayan culture of today. Be sure to stop and see a show soon. It is a sight not soon to be forgotten!

Uruguay's economy has been growing steadily.

With its breath-taking scenery, European influence, and excellent beaches, it’s not hard to see that Uruguay has much to offer. But the beauty of this country runs much deeper than what meets the eye. With steady economic growth even as the rest of the world struggles, Uruguay is as attractive economically as it is physically, making it an ideal place for both investors and those seeking a new place of residency. Let’s cut right to the chase: Uruguay has Latin America’s highest income per capita. It is the continent’s leading receptor of foreign direct investment (FDI) per capita (with 1.8 B dollars received in 2010). In 2010, the Uruguayan economy grew at a pace of 8.5%, in the seventh consecutive year of sustained growth, and after weathering the 2008 global crisis notably well (unlike most countries, it’s gross domestic product maintained positive growth that year). Let’s explore the reasons for this performance:

Keys to the Uruguayan economy

Uruguay is a favorite with investors for many reasons.  Among them:

• A solid and predictable legal system.
• Political and economic stability.
• Social stability, thanks to the existence of a middle class, relatively low levels of poverty and the lowest ratio of income disparity in Latin America.
• Low rates of corruption.
• An open economy, with free flow of capital (inward and outward) and free convertibility of currency.
• Equal treatment (guaranteed by law) to local and foreign investors.
• A solid banking system with banking privacy laws.
• Generous tax incentives to investment projects, large and small.
• A dozen free trade zones, from which hundreds of global companies operate with offshore customers and clients tax free.

The next chapters offer a brief overview of the two main tax incentive options that Uruguay offers, as well as an analysis of the economy’s main industries.

Tax incentives granted to investors

Uruguay has an investment promotion law that grants investors significant tax breaks on labor-creating enterprises.  This “Investment Act” (# 16,909), passed in 1998 and improved in 2007, grants exemptions in Income Tax (up to 100% of the invested amount), Value Added Tax on purchases (local or imported) and in Capital Tax.

Applying for these tax breaks is not complex: the request is made to a specialized unit within the Ministry of Finance, “COMAP”, who studies projects in and analyzes factors such as jobs creation, exports, incorporation of technology and the use of renewable energy.  The higher the impact of these factors, the larger the tax breaks.

The system is not restricted to large industrial projects; the range of businesses that obtain these tax breaks includes agricultural companies, call centers, professional services firms, construction companies, logistics businesses, and even movie-theater complexes.

Over the past three years, tax breaks have been granted to projects totaling over USD 1 B each year, with 2010 seeing a record 800 projects totaling USD 1.2 B in invested capital.

Uruguay's Free Trade Zones increase its appeal to foreign companies.

Free Trade Zones

Uruguay has a dozen free trade zones (FTZ), in different parts of the country.  Some FTZs are simply warehouses, others have office parks, and some offer a mix of both.  Hundreds of global and regional companies are established in Uruguay´s FTZs (including the likes of Merrill Lynch, Royal Bank of Scotland, Tata, RCI, Sabre and Epson).

Companies established in a FTZ may engage in logistics and warehousing, provide services to clients worldwide (including financial and insurance services), operate in the handling, classification and selection of merchandise, and even manufacturing.

The main advantage that FTZs offer is total tax exemption of Uruguayan taxes (current or future ones). The only tax that must be paid is social security tax on local labor. Thus, a user of a FTZ will neither face import taxes or duties (since a FTZ is considered non-Uruguayan territory from a customs-duty perspective), Income Tax, Capital Tax, or VAT.  The law guarantees the FTZ user that all tax breaks, as well as any other rights and benefits shall remain unchanged during the term of the user agreement.

The only requirement that companies operating in FTZs is that 75% of their payroll must be Uruguayan nationals.

Uruguay’s Main Industries

Agriculture, livestock and forestry

Agriculture and ranching have deep roots in Uruguay.

Historically, Uruguay has had a strong livestock industry, which played a significant role in its economy for over a century.  More recently, the use of Uruguay’s ubiquitous farmland has been increasingly devoted to two other higher-yielding industries as well: twenty years ago, forestry and since 2002, an enormous agricultural expansion.

Forestry was pushed by a 1987 law which gave tax breaks to the industry, attracting companies such as Weyerhaeuser, Ence and RMK among others, who plant eucalyptus and pine.  In 2007, Finnish company Botnia installed the most modern and largest pulp processing plant in Uruguay (a USD 1.B investment) and since 2010, Montes del Plata (co-owned by Sweden’s Stora-Enso) is building a second USD 2 B plant.

With the increase of commodity prices in 2002, and the arrival of Argentine grain farmers in 2003, the agricultural sector initiated an expansion that has consolidated agriculture as a key sector of Uruguay’s economy, with 1.2 million hectares planted in 2010.  Companies from Argentina, Brazil, New Zealand, the United States, and Europe all have a foothold in Uruguay’s expanding agricultural industry.

Construction and real estate

The construction industry has grown significantly since 2003, both in residential and commercial real estate.

Montevideo has seen strong growth in coastal areas, particularly in residential condominiums.  And in the capital’s old city, or “Ciudad Vieja”, a dynamic recycling process has taken off, mostly for office space, and driven mainly by foreign investors.

The real estate market is booming in coastal areas like Punta del Este.

In the seaside regions, Punta del Este is witnessing a record number of construction permits, from condominiums to subdivisions of land into estates for high end European, Brazilian, Argentine and U.S. buyers. Rocha, the province that still offers untouched beachfront land, has seen unprecedented development in seaside towns such as Punta del Diablo and La Pedrera, and half a dozen subdivision projects are under way along the coast.

To the west, Colonia has not escaped this growth, with the modernization of its port terminal, the opening of new hotels and a sustained real estate development in its promenade.  Even in the small town of Carmelo, to the west of Colonia, and across Buenos Aires, investment has increased significantly, with new high end developments aimed at polo and golf players.

Much of this growth in real estate is driven by Argentinean, Brazilian, U.S. and European investors seeking safe assets, in a stable market, and with attractive yields.

Tourism

Tourism is an important part of Uruguay’s economy.  Hotel investments have continued at a strong pace, including 6 star luxury hotels in the area of Punta del Este and new offerings in places like Rocha.

2010 saw a record number of tourists (2.4 million visitors) and USD 1.5 B in tourism revenue.  2011 is ste to cross the USD 2 B mark.

Mining

Uruguay is, for the first time, set to diversify into large-scale mining as a new industry.  The discovery of large reserves of iron-ore in central Uruguay have led Indian investor group Zamin Ferrous to initiate the installation of an iron-ore extraction plant and a deepwater port; a USD 3 B investment, which marks Uruguay’s largest project in history.

Uruguay as a destination for those seeking relocation

In addition to the advantages and safety that Uruguay offers to investors, the country is also one of the most attractive options for European and North American citizens seeking to establish a new residency.

The low or null taxation on foreign income, safety, quality of life and the different options that Uruguay offers (city, coast or countryside) have motivated the tripling of residency applications in the last four years.

The process to obtain residency in Uruguay is simple, and does not require investing in the country.  Basically, one must simply be able to prove a source of steady income and bear a clean police record.

In sum, these are some of the main reasons why Uruguay is favorite with both foreign investors, and citizens of third countries seeking a new place to live.

J. Torres Garcia's 1943 piece, "América invertida" (inverted America)

For those who have spent time traveling in South America, the emblematic image of a reversed-perspective South America is probably a familiar one. It is an enduring product of one of Uruguay´s most renowned artists and the founder of the Constructive Universalist movement, Joaquin Torres Garcia. Unfortunately, most of the artist´s works were destroyed in 1979 when a fire broke out at the modern art museum in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, during a major exhibit of his work there. In Montevideo, however, his legacy lives on in a fantastic museum bearing his name.

Joaquin Torres Garcia was a Uruguayan-born plastic artist, art theorist, prolific writer and toymaker. He was born July 28, 1874 and moved to Europe at the age of seventeen. He spent his formative years and most of his adult life in Spain and traveling around Europe. It was there he took on a significant role in the spread of Constructivism, an artistic philosophy that originated in Russia in 1919 and aimed to move the focus of art away from the purely aesthetic and toward the practical as a tool for social purposes. The Museo Torres Garcia keeps with this philosophy as it brings to the community a wide array of active art projects, while maintaining an appreciation of its art’s beauty.

The museum is located on the peatonal Sarandí, a promanade through the old city.

The museum is located in Montevideo on the peatonal Sarandí (a promanade through old city), just beyond the Plaza Independencia and the Puerta de la Ciudadela (which contains a piece of the original wall of the walled city of Montevideo). Walking by it is hard to miss. There are books from floor to ceiling through the paned glass front and signs for upcoming courses posted. The museum has a permanent collecions as well as guest exhibitions. It also offers several courses for adults and children, including workshops in Raku ware, charcoal drawing, painting, architecture design, music appreciation, and illustration. The building also includes a basement theater designed for small theatrical projects and theater arts workshops such as play-writing workshops and acting classes.

J. Torres Garcia's 1943 piece, "Arte Universal." Art prints are available for at the museum's gift shop.

The museum has a well-stocked bookstore, full of excellent resources for those too inclined to self-teaching. It offers a large selection of materials on sculpture, painting, photography, art history, and architecture. There is a comprehensive kids selection as well. The gift shop is an interesting place to browse and pass the time on a rainy day. And, if it is too rainy to leave your cozy abode, many of the products are available for purchase on the museum’s website. It’s the perfect spot for gifts from Uruguay. The products are all quite unique, of the finest quality and often based on the creations of Torres Garcia.

There are 30 minute guided tours available on Saturdays from 11.30am- 2.00pm, in both English and Spanish. To sign up, it is recommended to arrive a half hour before your preferred tour time. Tickets are sold at the front desk for 100 pesos (about 5 US dollars). Kids under 12 enter free. Tours can be arranged for tourist groups on alternate days by contacting the museum ahead of time at 915 65 44 or 916 26 63, or by emailing prensa@torresgarcia.org.uy. Any bus heading towards Plaza Independencia, Ciudad Vieja, Aduana, Plaza España y Ciudadela will drop you within walking distance of the museum. General admission is about 3 US dollars for visitors, 2 US dollars for residents  (with Uruguayan identification) and 1 US dollar for retirees and students. Children under 12 are enter free. Admission is free for everyone on Wednesdays.

The Museo Torres Garcia is a great way to have cheap fun if you are in Uruguay for a short time, or to enrich your life with a bit of artistic expression if you are living in Montevideo.

Monday -Friday- 9.30am- 7.30pm

Saturdays 10am -6pm

Sundays-Closed

Closed -January 1st, May 1st, July 18th, August 25th, November 2nd and December 25th

For more information:

Peatonal Sarandí 683,

Montevideo. CP 11000

Telephone:  915 6544/ 916 23 63

www.torresgarcia.org.uy