We wanted to share with you our favorites…

Situated within the walls of what was once a Jesuit monastery, San Estanislao de Kotxa, La Silenciosa restaurant is a great place to enjoy lunch, and it’s very affordable. Some of their offerings include a country-style lamb stew; a steak served with papas fritas and salad; lasagna; or fish of the day with garnishes.

La Silenciosa Restaurant is at 1426 Ituzaingo, just off Plaza Matriz on Peatonal Sarandi, Montevideo’s walking street. You can also visit their website: www.lasilenciosa.com.

SOA Cafe doubles as an open-to-the-public art gallery (all works hanging are for sale); SOA stands for Simplente Obras de Arte.  You can have breakfast, lunch, and tea in a place marked by great design and lovely natural light. But lest you worry, SOA is not all pomp and great furniture; it also has great food. And Wifi. During lunchtime, SOA offers several menus including soup, salad, water, and coffee (U$R180), or a sandwich, orange juice, soda, and ice cream (U$R210).

SOA Art Cafe, Constituyente 2046; tel. 4109763; Mon-Fri 10-8pm, Sat 12-4pm.

If you have the means, venture just outside Montevideo to Bouza Winery, a boutique, family-owned winery ten minutes outside Montevideo (just off Ruta 5). Bouza blends old-world winemaking traditions with new-age technology and gentle handling of the fruit allowing minimal intervention in each and every process.

If you enjoy good wine, then this place is really worth a visit. Guided tours are available through the winery, vineyard, and even the family’s classic car collection. Taste their limited-edition wines, which can only be purchased at the boutique, and treat yourself at the restaurant, where you will find a whole range of options, from delicate appetizers to the most elaborated local dishes.

For reservations or consultations telephone (598-2)323-40-30

Not exactly an eatery, but a cluster of them, Mercado del Puerto is found tucked alongside Montevideo’s main port in the historic district known as “Ciudad Vieja” (old city). The market contains an impressive array of parrillas (steak restaurants) designed to knock the socks off any true meat-eating enthusiast. Try a parilla-grilled platter, steak, or the traditional Uruguayan sandwich, the chivito—veal tenderloin, lettuce, tomato, ham, cheese, bacon, and egg, all married together either in a sandwich.

“La Rural”, as the locals refer to it, is a historic affair here Montevideo. It is the largest farming exposition in Uruguay with an approximated 525,000 attendees per year, and more than 1,500 animals of all species and breeds for show and sale. More than 500 companies, both agriculture/industrial and commercial, from around the world are represented. The fair however, was not always this enormous. It has come along way since it’s beginnings.

In 1883  the first exposition was organized  by the ARU (Asociación Rural del Uruguay), which still exists today and is the collective of all the various rural societies in Uruguay. This fair was much smaller and was held in what is now the Plaza de Los 33 in the center of Montevideo. For several years the Expo del Prado traveled all around Uruguay, having fairs in various departments. It wasn’t until 1913, that the fairground in the historical neighborhood of El Prado was constructed. Since then the Rural del Prado has been held annually in this very place.

The “Rural” is like one giant country fair without the Ferris wheel. There are livestock and animal expositions, auctions galore, and lots of other general interesting events relating to farming and country life. The “remates” or auctions for those curious about investing in livestock  are especially intriguing. You can see the animals for sale and then the action starts. You don’t need to be buying to hang out and watch. It is a wild time when the champions go up for sale.

As you walk through the green grounds filled with 100-year-old trees, you come across little “pabellones” or pavilions. Each country that sells products here in Uruguay sets up a group of stands for tasting and buying products. Spain, the U.S., Brazil, Italy, Japan, and France among others display their wares: typical food of the country, farm equipment, hand crafts, pretty much anything you can imagine. There are also plenty of stands from right here in Uruguay spread throughout the fairgrounds where fine samples of wine, cheese, and other goodies can be enjoyed at your leisure.

My personal favorite memory of this wonderful late-winter festival is walking down the busy paths eating a candied apple and enjoying the laughter of the families spending the day together… the wafting aromas from the many restaurants and “parilladas” (grills) set up for the occasion in fine typical Uruguayan fashion. Hereford and Angus beef each have their own exclusive “parillada” so you really know what you are eating. If I can be so bold as to recommend a tasty dish, the “tapa de cuadril” of fresh Hereford beef is really good.

At night there is live music and bars rage until dawn. The best local rock and pop bands play shows every night. It’s also a great opportunity to see some good murga music. Murga is a typical style of music from Uruguay, which puts political parodies to energetic danceable music. The shows are always entertaining even if your Spanish isn’t at its best. Colorful outfits and fancy face-painting add an especially fun twist. There are often shows during the day, you just have to check the schedule online to be sure of what’s coming up.

This year the Exposición Rural del Prado kicks off on September 8th and runs through September 19th. This will be the 105th. The layout of the fairgrounds is convenient and easily accessible by car and bus, with safe parking if you leave your car with the “cuidacoches” (the men and women who are all around the area watching the cars). It is an excellent way to spend a big family outing, or a romantic date one-on-one. Besides the “rural” festivities, the Jardin Botánico ( Botanical Garden) and El Rosedal (Montevideo’s trellis tunnel full of roses) are right across the street. There are three “futbol” stadiums within walking distance, and the Circulo de Tenis is also a few blocks away for playing or watching a tennis match if you should so desire.

I have spent almost eight years enjoying what Uruguay has to offer, and the Rural del Prado is among my favorites. It has everything you need to make a winter day fun. There is even a Miss Expo Prado Pageant and fashion shows with the latest, hippest, country-style attire. Ticket prices are very reasonable and it is a great way for city folk and foreigners to get in touch with the reality behind the important and productive economy that drives this country. I highly recommend it and hope your experiences there lead to a lovely tradition just as mine have.

You can find very helpful information and a full schedule of events and shows on the official website at www.expoprado.com.

Que se diviertan!

Parador Fito is on Ruta 8, a few kilometers east of the tiny village of Soca. It was obvious as we turned off the road that this parador is a popular choice for many. There were a dozen cars and a couple of large trucks parked in front early on a Saturday afternoon. It was also obvious as we entered that our friends had been here many times before—they were greeted like family by the staff. We were introduced as friends and immediately accepted. What a warm welcome.

On our way to be seated, we passed a glass showcase displaying meats. The beaming owner lifted ribs, steaks, and large pieces of beef for our benefit. Fresh chicken breasts, chickens quarters, and pork chops were also showcased. This is Uruguay where people consume on average more than 58 kilos of meat per person per year, the highest ranked meat-eating country in a recent poll.

Our table, near the parilla (grill), had a nice tablecloth and cloth napkins. The cook turned from his laden grill to chat with our friends as we were presented with menus. There are no exotic dishes on this menu. This is Uruguayan food, from the soups, through the starters and the main course offerings, to the desserts. As we were deciding, fresh rolls and crispy flat breads, like big round crackers, appeared. They were followed by a plate of chorizo pieces. The women selected steak dishes, I chose a chicken dish, and our other friend didn’t have to order. As a regular customer, the staff already knew what he wanted to eat.

While we waited for meats to be grilled and sauces and garnishes to be added, our friends told us more about this parador. We got a short history of the interesting family that owns and operates it. We learned about the staff, all hired from nearby Soca. We learned those staff members, during the summer of drought in 2009, had rushed from work to help our friends fight fires that threatened their farm, visible across the fields from the restaurant windows. Our friends most often come for lunch on Sundays, and they explained another frequent Sunday diner is one of the former presidents of Uruguay. Can you imagine that in a country like the U.S.? Not too likely, I’m sure, but this is Uruguay.

And then our food arrived. Everything was good. All ingredients are fresh and obtained locally, including the bread products from the Soca bakery. We needed a refill of bread to wipe the delicious sauce from our plates as we finished eating. We didn’t try any of the desserts, but I am confident we will be coming back again. The bill for my wife and me, including a half-liter of wine, was just $25. Very good value! On the way out, we purchased bags of that crispy flat bread to take home. You just don’t find them in our supermarket.

Back in the parking lot, a grey-bearded local acomodadore earns some pesos by watching over the cars. If you should find yourself driving along this particular country road sometime, Parador Fito would be a roadhouse worth a visit.

Guaviyú Hot Springs

This is the largest hot spring aquatic park in South America, and contains pools and hot spring facilities and attractions designed for visitors of all ages. It is part of the Hotel Horacio Quiroga Resort in Salto Grande Hot Springs. Its most outstanding features include a hydro massage pool that can fit up to 30 people, and a great number of Scottish and Finnish showers. There is also a giant cascade, which provides bathers below of a natural and relaxing  hydro-massage.

Undoubtedly, “Playa Paraíso” (Paradise Beach) is one of the major attractions—very big waves are produced inside a large pool through a system of air injection. “Río Aventura” (Adventure River), which runs along over 180 meters, is an invitation to float downriver on rubber boats. There is a water castle with slides, hammocks, and watering cans. Lovers of adrenaline will love the “Anaconda Gigante” (Giant Anaconda), a kind of circular slide, or the the “Black Hole”, where vertigo is felt through a 73-meter long closed slide with an interesting style of lighting.

Guaviyú Hot Springs, tel. (598)73-34411, email: hhq@netgate.com.uy.

Acuamanía

This is the first hot spring aquatic park in South America. It is located in the Daymán Hot Spring Resort, in the municipality of Salto. It offers a magical, joyful, and relaxing environment inside a venue of over 15,000-square meters of gardens, pools, and  aquatic recreational equipment. There is a specialized lifeguard team, baby-sitter service, rest areas, and hot spring waters. There are also showers and hydro massage pools. In the summer, Acuamanía cools its waters at night so that people may enjoy all their therapeutic properties during the day with fresh temperatures.

The main recreational attractions include: Rio Lento (Slow River), a real voyage on a rubber boat along an artificial river. The stream carries the participants along the entire venue across tunnels, bridges, and cascades. Kamikaze: a 10-meter-high slide where vertigo and amusement in the water are combined. Acuamanza: two 70-meter long entwined spiral tubes along which participants descend at about 60 km/h. Adrenaline guaranteed.

Acuamanía, tel. (598)73-69222; email: info@acuamania.com.

The information in this article has been reproduced with the permission of www.welcomeuruguay.com.

We strolled along grassy lanes between hectares of grapes. Bleached wooden posts support wires on which vines grow. Without leaves or fruit, the vines look gnarly, withered, and dead. Soon we reached our spot for today.

Pablo explained the two different types of vine growth that we could see. In one style, the thick stem of the vine grows up the support post for about two meters and then the vines grow out along a connecting grid of wires to form a canopy between the straight rows of posts. In the other style, the rows of posts are spaced much farther apart and have wires running horizontally between the posts. Grape vine stems emerge about a meter apart under these wires. They do not grow around the support posts; instead they reach up to the lowest wire and then grow laterally along the wires. So in one style you end up with a roof of grapes and in the other a fence of grapes. The first style is the dominant method in South America whereas the latter is a European method. Pablo uses different styles for different grapes. Today we work only on the low vines.

Pablo explained that we needed to cut off nearly all the branches we could see. He showed us where buds will emerge and stressed we must snip away until there isn’t much left except maybe two trimmed branches. All vines must be pruned to produce new fruit. There are different techniques for different types of grapes. Sometimes you need to keep the first bud and sometimes the third or fourth bud. All of this just became too much information after a while and we were content to just stick with the one type in front of us. These vines required us to select good buds at about 15 cm intervals and cut off everything else, really close to the main vine.

A bit later, Pablo brought a bundle of yellow wicker. Each wicker piece is about a half meter long. He showed us how this supple plant can be wrapped around the vine and the wire, twisted several times and then trimmed. At his winery they only use natural wicker ties, not plastic ties favored by other producers.

Soon, Pablo announced that vine pruning was over and it was time to go to eat. Nobody objected to this decision. We went to the room where they sell bottles of wine and found tables set and ready for us.

We began with a 2008 vintage fruity white wine called Estival. Crusty, homemade bread slices were artistically displayed with sprigs of rosemary in hollowed round loaves along the table. The wine was delicious. Soon, the first course appeared—a squash and leek soup garnished with a crisp, toasted bread slice, croutons, and chive stems. The flavors were warm, subtle, and satisfying.

The wine for the second course was Catarsis, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Tannat blend (detailed in an article about this winery in Issue #75 of Ola Uruguay). The accompanying food offering was guiso de lentejas, a lentil dish with tomatoes, onion, potatoes, pasta, pork, chorizo slices, and rosemary. Its hearty flavors were well matched to the robust wine.

The main course was a generous portion of extremely tender steak, served rare, with accompanying roasted potato and yam slices. The wine for this course was Eolo, an 85% Tannat, 15% Ruby Cabernet blend that has been aged in French oak for three years. The story of Eolo, the Greek god of the winds, is detailed on the attractive bottle label. It was a most delicious combination.

Naturally, there were postres (desserts). The main offering was an attractive flan garnished with pumpkin bits cooked in sugar syrup, and swirled mounds of dulce de leche, the omnipresent Uruguayan sweet. With this came Aleyone, a dessert wine with a 16% alcohol content. After, we were given cups of espresso and tiny dulce de leche filled cookie sandwiches, dusted with icing sugar.

Our group was a mixture of Uruguayans, Italians, Americans, and Canadians, and the lively and animated dinner conversations jumped around through Spanish, Italian, and English. Our dining experience had lasted nearly three hours.

Before we left, several bottles of the delicious wines we had tasted were purchased to take home. As we all stepped back outside into the late afternoon sunshine to go our separate ways, we showed those contented looks that come from wonderful experiences.

For tours, tastings, private events, wine lunches, and wine dinners contact Mariana Cerutti at: info@vinedodelosvientos.com.

Chardonnay

If cabernet sauvignon is the king of red grapes, there is no doubt that the unquestionable queen of white grapes is chardonnay. It has a French origin, in the areas of Burgundy, Chablis, and Champagne. The excellent wine and champagne that come these grapes result in deep and delicate flavors. Their yellow color and fruit aroma are reminiscent of apples and flowers.

Its early to mid-term maturation means this wine has a good body, ideal to accompany fish, white meat, and cheese.

Gewürztraminer

In Uruguay, when talking about the Botrytis wines, this grape is considered one of the best, as it gives a fine late harvest wine (ripe grape clusters, harvested by hand and aged in casks), many of which have been awarded the first prize at international contests.

This white grape adapts well to the soil and the climate of Uruguay. Many winemakers concentrate their attention on it because the wines obtained from this variety are really sublime, as far as both body and aroma are concerned.

Gewürztraminer is great with traditional Uruguayan asado, particularly pork.

Sauvignon blanc

Sauvignon blanc is one of the finest varieties of wine in Uruguay. These days however, not many wineries grow this grape. This is a French grape that produces dry white wines with very appetizing smoked touches and perfumed aroma. It has a noble yellow body with green and emerald trimmings. In Uruguay, it is used with other blends to make fine wines of excellent quality, even the so-called dessert wines.

Sauvignon blanc is primarily paired with fish/seafood or cheese, and sometimes veal or chicken.

The information in this article is reproduced with the permission of welcomeuruguay.com.

Due to its great capacity for adaptation to all kinds of weather, cabernet sauvignon is considered the king of red varieties. Its grape, native from Bordeaux, France, produces a wine with remarkable acidity, sharp and with a strong presence of tannins. Once matured, it is a tasty wine with full body. It has intense colors and a complex aroma of fruit, cinnamon, coffee, and peppers.

In Uruguay, all wineries make this wine, ideal to accompany beef, lamb, red sauces, and pasta. As it matures late, the ideal environment to grow this grape is made up by temperate areas with soft falls.

Malbec

This grape comes from Southeastern France. It has become a classical wine on the Uruguayan table in recent years. It acquires certain growing conditions, which differ quite a lot according to the type of climate and soil where it is grown.

In Uruguay, this grape has a strong personality and taste, a body pleasing to the eye due to its intense purple-maroon color. Its texture in the palate has a touch of sharpness. It is recommended to accompany asado, red meat, pamplonas, and pasta.

Tannat

Tannat grapes, originally from the southwest of France, were first planted in Uruguay in 1870 by a Basque immigrant. The vines flourished, yielding a suppler taste than their highly astringent European counterparts. Uruguayan growers are now hoping to use this grape as their passport to distinction. While in Uruguay, why not choose Tannat over Malbec as the perfect accompaniment to hearty, grass-fed Uruguayan beef.

Pinot noir

Pinot noir is the name of a grape variety used to make red wine of excellent quality and, along with chardonnay grapes, the best champagne in the country.

Its name derives from the French language, in which pinot stands for “pine tree”—its cluster resembles a small pine—and noir means “black”, referring to the color of the grapes. This variety gives origin to the best Uruguayan champagne. The secret to prevent the skin color from tingeing the drink is to avoid squeezing it too much when the juice is extracted. The juice then undergoes a slow process of fermentation until it is ready to become champagne.

The secret of this wine is the care given to the grapes.

Merlot

Merlot is a grape from Southern France. It is generally blended with cabernet sauvignon and tannat. Its combination with tannat has been considered a real discovery and achievement. The Uruguayan specialists have moderated the taste and acidity of the most popular grape in the country. Merlot seems to excellently compliment the softness of tannat.

You can distinguish a taste of fruit in Merlot. Its body features soft shades of violet and it is not too bright. It matures early, therefore, it is considered a soft wine, ideal to accompany snacks, cheese, and cold cuts.

The information in this article has been reproduced with the permission of Welcome Uruguay.

The Fallabrino family has been in the wine-making business in Uruguay for quite a long time. Pablo’s grandfather, Angel Fallabrino, came from Alessandria, in the Piedmont region of Italy, in the late 1920s. Along with his brother, they began with two wineries in the Montevideo area in 1933. Soon they had five wineries near Montevideo. The property near Atlantida was purchased and planted in 1947. In the 1980s, the original 60 hectares was split by the two brothers. Pablo came to be the owner of his 30-hectare property in 1995, following the untimely death of his father and the passing of his grandfather.

Up to then, the land had only been used for cultivation. Construction of a winery commenced in 1997. In March 1998, an ultra-modern warehouse was completed. The equipment was all imported from Italy and includes stainless steel storage tanks, pneumatic presses, and automatic temperature controls. The storage tanks have a capacity of 200,000 liters. The oak barrels, used for aging, are all imported from France. “I like French oak”, Pablo said. Particularly in the heat of summer, some of the wine is lost to evaporation, “the angel’s share” he laughingly explained. He also told me the barrels cost about $500 each and are used only a few times during a nine-year period. They are then cleaned and resold for about one quarter of the original purchase price. 

Vines for cabernet sauvignon, trebbiano, tannat, gewurztraminer, and chardonnay wines have been planted transforming the property into a world-class vineyard. The winery is small and focuses on quality wines. “We love… mixing up different grapes and musts during fermentation to achieve unique flavors and aromas.”

The winery practices cultivation techniques that respect the environment and the wildlife. They don’t spray with insecticides and use only a low toxicity fungicide to combat mildew. They also leave natural cover crops between the rows of vines and don’t use plastic to tie the vines. The environmental concern runs in the family, as Pablo’s brother, Alejandro, is an environmental activist who runs a sea turtle project near Santa Teresa National Park.

After the tour, we went to the tasting room where we were joined by Pablo’s wife, Mariana Cerutti, who opened two bottles of wine. The white was called Angel’s Cuvee, a 2004 Chardonay Trebbiano Blanco de Bianco, aged six years in oak. The red was Catarsis, a 70% cabernet sauvignon, 30% tannat blend, aged in oak for eighteen months.

“For me,” said Pablo, “it is good to open an Uruguayan white wine that is six years old and not dead.” The label of this wine indicated that it was a tribute to Pablo’s grandfather, who learned to make “robust, intense, earth-driven wines”. The label also indicated flavors and tones of dandelion, orange blossom, aloe, lemon, five spice, macadamia nuts, and cardamom, with an olive oil finish. I am afraid with my unsophisticated wine palate (I generally do not drink white wines) I will simply have to report that I enjoyed the white wine very much

Given my personal tastes, I preferred the red wine, whose label explained that “catarsis is an experience or feeling of spiritual release and purification brought on by an intense emotional experience”. Just what I needed! This wine retails for 220 pesos (about $11). Their entire range of wines was on display in the room. My wife and I have previously visited this winery and purchased other excellent red wines and a wonderful tannat dessert wine.

Mariana, who officially holds the title of Director of Events and Tourism, explained that they do special lunches and dinners in the wine tasting room. It is by appointment only; it is not a restaurant. This ensures they know exactly how many are coming and can then purchase the freshest of products from local suppliers. They produce gourmet meal offerings paired with their exquisite wines. They also have festivals. They fondly recalled one where a friend, who is a chef in Sao Paulo, came as guest cook, bringing along a bottle of truffle oil. The next festival they will host will happen in August when they will have a Pruning Festival, where people will come to learn how to prune and tie vines, followed, of course, by food and wine tasting.

Pablo told me he loves what he does. “I don’t want to copy. I want to produce and create.” With this in mind, he has recently purchased 10.5 hectares on one of Uruguay’s highest mountains (hills actually), near Maldonado. His dream is to build a new winery there that will reflect everything he has learned about viniculture in Uruguay. He says it is a healthy place and everything will be done organically. From my visit to Vinedo de los Vientos, I am convinced he will fulfill this new vision.

You can buy dry ingredients at the ferias too, but only in small packages. All the Uruguayan supermarkets stock flours, grains, seeds, beans, nuts, lentils, noodles, dried fruits, and spices. And in the Atlantida area, where we live, there are even a couple of smaller stores that specialize in carrying greater quantities of these items.

While we do purchase some of our supplies locally, every couple of months we make a trip to Montevideo to buy dry ingredients in bulk from some warehouse-like operations with retail access. Our two favorites are near each other on Avenida Batlle y Ordones—El Granero (The Granary) and Niters. Recently we went to El Granero. Here’s a look at what we bought and what we paid for some items.

Some of the produce sold at El Granero comes in small packages; however, most are sold in quantities from a half kilo through to ten kilos. We generally buy half kilo or kilo bags. On this visit, we bought one kilo each of rye flour, wheat germ, corn flour, cornstarch, flaxseed flour, and rolled oats; plus, a five-kilo bag of whole-wheat kernels. We also bought one-kilo units of unsalted sunflower seeds, unsalted peanuts, and salted peanuts. It’s amazing how many times I’ve heard or read questions about whether items such as some of these are available in Uruguay.

Staples for this trip also included brown Japanese rice, butter beans, garbanzo beans, and a type of fine lentils known locally as Lenteja Canadiense, although I’m sure they did not come from Canada.

We bought shredded coconut, granola, and jars of honey, all in the one-kilo size, and a half kilo only of wonderfully flavorful dried apricots.

We also replenished supplies of herbs, spices, and seasonings, buying half kilo lots of dried mint, dried basil, curry, cumin, cinnamon, a fine Spanish paprika, salt without fluoride, and icing sugar.

So how much money can you save? Well let’s look at a few items. The rolled oats cost 36 pesos (currently US$1 = 20.95 Uruguayan pesos) for a kilo. The largest size available at our local Tienda Inglesa sells for 28 pesos for 400g, which works out to 71.25 pesos per kilo. We paid basically half the price. The butter beans at El Granero were 50 pesos for the kilo bag and cost exactly the same for half that amount at the supermarket. The peanuts were interesting. We bought the unsalted ones at 66 pesos per kilo and the salted ones at 76 pesos per kilo. (Who knew that a little salt was worth 10 pesos?) At our local feria, both types of peanuts sell, from open-air bulk bins, for 18 pesos per 100 grams, or at a special price of 30 pesos for 250 grams. Even at the special rate, that’s 120 pesos a kilo. The luxurious half kilo of dried apricots cost 126 pesos at El Granero, 140 at the feria, and 177 at the supermarket. Suffice it to say that every item we bought at El Granero represented a savings.

Furthermore, everything is thoroughly clean and well packaged in thick, sealed plastic bags, which ensure freshness. We’ll be back in Montevideo for another one of these shopping trips in a couple of months. How can we resist with such a good selection of fresh products at the best prices?

For example, our housekeeper told us once, “There is nothing nicer in the world than eating at home together as a family.” This statement speaks volumes about the traditional values of Uruguay. When I thought about it, I realized that it is rare to see someone snacking on the bus, grabbing a packet of chips to eat on the way to work. In Uruguay, we wait to eat at home. Although the silver trailers selling hamburgers and italian sausage would beg to differ, on the whole, there is very little snacking that goes on.

And why would I appreciate that? Well, in the U.S., the daily average number of calories consumed in snacks has risen at an overwhelming rate. In the 1970’s, Americans consumed about 200 calories in out-of-mealtime snacks. Now, in 2010, that number of daily calories has risen to almost 700. There are no rules about when and where a person can eat. Restaurants and drive-ins are open 24 hours a day and people are inundated with advertisements about single serving pre-packaged junk. Family time and sensible eating habits have all but evaporated in North America

Now let’s not say that junk doesn’t exist here in Uruguay. The “torta frita” could be thought of as the epitome of junk food, and indeed it is marketed by well-meaning grandmothers and aunties as the panacea for rain. “Oh dear, it is raining and you can’t go outside. How about a chunk of bread dough fried in lard and sprinkled with sugar to make you feel better?” Churros are miniature examples of hardening arteries. They are also deep fried dough, crunchy on the outside and sticky, sweet, and slow-moving on the inside.

Yes, there is junk food in Uruguay but it exists with less, what can we say, aggression. There is not the constant bombardment of advertisements, there are fewer flashing lights, and less marketing dollars spent on trying to find a way to get us to buy and to eat the newest fad. In the supermarket, you may find a whole aisle devoted to yerba mate but there is never a whole aisle devoted to different types of potato chip snacks like you’d see in the U.S.

I think about a recent trip to a drugstore in the U.S. I anticipated just buying a few headache tablets, but in the process, I had to walk past the snack foods, breakfast items, milk, frozen novelties, electronics, toys, school supplies, and cosmetics. Here in Montevideo, other than a few candies or chewing gum at the counter, I can walk right in, speak with the druggist and purchase what I want without the temptation of so many trinkets and diet-breakers. More is not better. I like the simple things.