Tax Free Zones...

Live a Lavish Lifestyle...

A Great-Value Early-In Deal

How To... Banking

An Expat Account

Where Uruguayan’s Dream of Retiring To

In the same rocky range of hills near Minas where Richard Gere built a series of Buddhist temples as a refuge for Tibetan monks in exile, lies a beautiful place that lingers in the minds of the Uruguayan people who regard it with a sense of deep fondness and longing to return. This place is Villa Serrana in the province of Lavalleja.

It is a common dream for many Uruguayans to retire there, but for some reason no one ever does. Although small in scale by comparison to any mountain range in the world—in a country that is almost void of altitude, to locals these hills are mountains, and like all mountains, they have a special mystic.

As a foreigner living in Uruguay, Villa Serrana is another great escape not to be missed.

How to get here
Take the Interbalneario from Montevideo to the town of Pan de Azucar (not Cerro Pan de Azucar). Turn left and go through the town of Pan de Azucar toward Minas on route 60, which turns into route 12 near Minas. Once in Minas follow the signs to route 8 going northeast. Follow route 8 to approximately kilometer marker 140 to the sign that says Villa Serrana. Take a right, go 11 kilometers down a dirt road to the town itself.

Being from the Lone Star State, upon arrival I felt I was entering the Texas hill country somewhere around Austin. The area is rocky rolling hills with patches of green cedar. When you get to the town itself, you come to a river that cuts through the hills and ends in a dam. That would be the town center, if indeed there were a town center.

Villa Serrana isn’t exactly a town. It is more like a bunch hills, with a cluster of homes, a few general stores, and a couple of hotels. There is not even a gas station, so if you need anything other than lodging, a meal, or a bottle of wine, be sure to pick it up in Minas on the way.

The basics are all you’ll need any way. Villa Serrana is about the simple pleasures: watching the sun rise or set over the hills, a dip in the Banado de la India or La Olla (two of several natural swimming holes in the area), a good book, a good meal, or maybe a horseback ride. At night stargazing is the only entertainment. There is no light pollution, so on a clear night, you can see every star in the sky. There is an observatory for a closer look at the night sky through a telescope; that is if it happens to be open while you are there.

There are a few places to stay. We looked at all them, before deciding on the Hosteria La Forteleza. It is located on the highest point, so it has the most commanding view of the valley and river below. Although it is not fancy, it is the nicest hotel in town, and it has its own special charm. The inside looks like the witch’s house from the tale of Hansel and Gretel. In fact, the owner has a huge collection of doll witches. There are literally hundreds of witches in every corner, on every table, and even hanging from the ceiling. The food is not bad, and the service is extremely friendly.
Perhaps no one actually ever retires here, because by comparison to the Uruguayan coast, the place is unassuming. There are not many creature comforts, there are no five star hotels, and not much to do except relax.

Side Trip: While in Villa Serrana be sure to take the time to go the extra 15 or 20 kilometers out of the way to the waterfall known as the Salto El Penitente. It is located off the same route 8 as Villa Serrana. Look for the sign to the right at kilometer marker 125, or ask in Villa Serrana how to get there through the backcountry route. The scenery through the windy dirt roads is worth the trip alone. The waterfall itself is about a 50-meter drop of crystalline waters, and there is an excellent restaurant on the site. You can also slide across the gorge by taking a thrilling ride on a canopy cable.