Uruguay’s Booming Beef Industry

Along the Corridors of History

OU’s Quick Guide to… Viveros, and Growing Plants in Uruguay

An Expat Account of… The Fiesta House Phenomenon

OU’s Quick Guide to… Viveros, and Growing Plants in Uruguay
By Syd Blackwell

To buy plants in Uruguay you need to visit a vivero. This is Uruguay’s version of a nursery for plants, but viveros vary as much as the people that own them. Here’s a look at some viveros in my part of Uruguay.

The first vivero I discovered was in the Atlantida suburb of Las Toscas, and is run by Felix, a landscaper by trade. This was a great place to start as Felix has a good selection of flowers, and is well stocked in growing provisions. He also has a large selection of herbicides, pesticides, and insecticides. (There are some nasty weeds and bugs to fight when tackling a neglected yard.) However, as my yard evolved, and my needs and wish list grew, I began discovering other viveros.

Vivero Monte Color in Atlantida is hard to miss; the large collection of macetas (flowerpots), fountains, and statuary is visible from the highway. Run by a most amenable older woman, you will find a wide selection of flowers, shrubs, climbers, and trees, including lots of fruit trees. The pots, fountains, and ornaments are all made from cast concrete by her son who has his own outlet nearby, where he also sells garden furniture. I have bought a fountain, many pots, a bougainvillea (known locally as Santa Rita), a rose, a bignonia, some fruit trees, and quite a lot of flowers from this vivero.

Vivero Pachamama (www.viveropachamama.com), meaning “Mother Earth”, lies about fifteen kilometers down the highway, and is run by an unlikely couple. He is an ex-pilot, and she is an ex-lawyer. They seem to have a system in place—he does all the talking as the primary salesperson, and she quietly makes sure everything grows. You can’t go to their vivero without getting a guided tour of their extensive array of aromatic, medicinal, and culinary herbs and plants, both native and exotic, along with their amazing variety of cacti and bonsai. Among the many, many plants I’ve bought here are herbs, raspberries, blueberries, mango, pineapple, multi-colored cherry tomatoes, and my beloved chili peppers.

Just a few blocks away is Vivero Myosotis, lovingly operated by an Uruguayan man in his eighties. Before he created his vivero, work took him all over the world, so he speaks several languages fluently as well as understanding many more. This vivero specializes in landscaping. It is beautifully laid out with twisting paths and even places to sit and contemplate. The gentle splash of water from a streamlet and pond mixes with the songs of birds who love this haven. A visit to this vivero is good for the soul even if you don’t buy a thing.

Vivero Dona Flor (Calle 9 y 11 - Balneario Solis at Ruta Interbalnearia km 88.5) advertises itself as un vivero diferente. And indeed it is different. This vivero is most like a North American landscaping/gardening center. It consists of a system of interlocking greenhouses, interspersed with raised outdoor flowerbeds and trees. Everything is neat, orderly, and business-like. They specialize in garden design with an appropriate collection of decorative and ornamental plant varieties. They have the best collection of large, landscape-ready trees I’ve found in Uruguay.

One very specialized vivero near Solymar only sells bonsai. A lot of bonsai! I found another that had a particular ficus I wanted, and yet another that provided varieties of azaleas not found elsewhere. There are viveros in every community, and they are strung out all along the highways too. They are not hard to find and a visit is always a unique experience in some way.

Prices are another delightful aspect of viveros in Uruguay; especially if you are used to prices in North America. For instance, you can buy fruit trees already a meter and a half high, that might even produce fruit in the first year, for $10 to $15 each. You can buy a bougainvillea for under $8. Flowers are mostly less than $5; some much less. Sturdy cement macetas run from $12 to $25 depending on size; clay varieties are cheaper but less substantial. A beautiful garden fountain might cost you between $60 and $130, again depending on size and style, but is a wonderful addition to the yard. Bags of good soil sell for about $2. If you need a large quantity, it sells much cheaper by the truckload. There is rarely a delivery charge.