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Condombe drummers fill the streets with sound and color.

With warm breezes finally hitting the coasts of Uruguay, people are heading out to the beaches, enjoying long walks along the ramblas, and dining under spring skies. If you are living in Uruguay already, you have most likely also started to hear the throbbing, passionate sounds of drumming as dusk begins to fall. This is the sound of Candombe, the heartbeat of Uruguay.

Candombe is a form of music common in Uruguay and neighboring countries Argentina and Brazil. It bears the most important influence in Uruguay, however, so much so it has been named a piece of intangible cultural heritage (ICH) by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). Candombe’s origins lie in African Bantu traditions brought to the coasts of the Río de la Plata by African slaves during the years of colonization in South America. Slaves from the region that is now Angola were taken to Brazil, Cuba and Argentina; with them traveled the music of their homeland. In each new destination the music developed in a slightly different way, but always maintained the same basic roots. Candombe drumming originally served as a major form of communication for the arriving slaves in Uruguay. Its combination of dance and religion made it a valuable way for people far from home to connect to their heritage and history. Candombe was first officially recorded as a practice towards the end of 18th century. Over the years, this drum music has become not only an important part of the Afro-Uruguayan culture, but also a staple in the Uruguayan culture at large. Many sources agree that Candombe strongly influenced the creation of Tango, the world-famous genre of music from the region. Years ago, the Candombe players would meet in designated places call tangós to play. It is no mystery how Tango took on its immortal name.

The hides of the candombe drums are warmed around a fire to prepare them for playing.

Today Candombe makes up a huge part of the culture. As summer approaches, there will be competitions and gatherings in the streets. The main Candombe neighborhoods in Uruguay are el Barrio Sur and Palermo. These two neighborhoods gave birth to las comparsas (drumming groups) and continue to nurture them to this day. Candombe uses three different kinds of tambores (drums) to make up a complete comparsa: chico, repique and piano. Before playing, the drums are placed around a large fire to warm the hides for ideal playing conditions. And then the fun begins!

In February during Carnaval, you will find the largest Candombe exhibition in Uruguay in the Sur and Palermo neighborhoods. It is called Las Llamadas (“The Calls” in English). This is a giant parade where dozens of Candombe clubs come together to strut their stuff and compete for the prize for the best comparsa. Each group has no less than 50 drummers and usually also a large group of dancers, flag twirlers and baton throwers. It is quite a spectacle, and always delivers a great time.

Candombe drums are handmade by serious craftsmen in Uruguay.

For those interested in learning to play Candombe, there are many schoola throughout the country. Tamborilearte ( http://www.tamborilearte.com.uy/) is one of the most popular. They offer workshops for schools and businesses, as well as individual lessons. This particular school offers shows for hire as well. They performed this year for the 3rd Latin American Pesticide Residue Workshop on Food and Environment in Montevideo.

Candombe has helped generations of people connect with neighbors and create lasting bonds among people, starting with the slaves brought over from Africa, and continuing on to the diverse Uruguayan culture of today. Be sure to stop and see a show soon. It is a sight not soon to be forgotten!