An Expat Account of… Las Grutas de Salamanca and Parque Salto del Penitente
One day this summer, with the threat of rain in the forecast, we set off with a younger couple for a day trip. We had two goals—to see Las Grutas (caves) de Salamanca and to visit Parque Salto del Penitente. Rain would not interfere with a morning cave visit and we hoped that the weather would improve in the afternoon.
We drove up Ruta 8 through Minas and another 38 kilometers to Ruta 13. This road leads through the small village of Aigua where we made a stop. The central plaza with tree lined walks and a fountain is surrounded by a delightful array of colorful buildings. We took a lot of pictures before resuming our journey to the caves, about another twenty minutes along the road.
Las Grutas is located at an elevation of 188 meters on the slopes of Sierra de Sosa, which reaches more than 200 meters in height. From the parking area we admired a panoramic view back across a wide valley to the distant hills of Minas. The caves were a good 10-minute hike above us. Just as we entered a part of the trail where branches grow from either side to form a leafy canopy, the rain started. We didn’t linger on the verdant pathway and soon reached a yawning grotto entrance, about ten meters wide and two meters high. Oddly, we had not thought to bring a flashlight. Luckily there were a few others at the main cave who had been smarter than us so we got to see more that we deserved. The main cavern is not too deep, but has several sections that lead off in different directions. There were bats in the cave. Although you’ll find vampire bats in Uruguay near the Brazilian border, the bats here are useful insect eaters. The caves, which are naturally formed by erosion, were also once used by a legendary local bandit.
When we were finished exploring the main grotto, we moved on upward in search of some of the lesser caves. This was not a good idea, as the trail had become muddy and the mossy rocks quite slippery. Our young companions climbed on and did manage to find some other openings, but we went back to the car. Enough cave exploring for us on this rainy day.
It was still raining when we got back to the turnoff to Parque Salto del Penitente, so we continued on to Minas and found a restaurant. By the time we had finished eating, the rain had stopped, so we returned to the park access road. Most of the land that surrounds Minas is private and inaccessible.
The end of the road descends steeply between large granite boulders to a parking lot bounded by buildings and a viewing platform that is actually the roof of a restaurant. From this vantage position you look down into a rocky gorge where Salto de Agua, a waterfall, tumbles 60 meters into crystalline waters. A clever, twisting rocky pathway and steps lead down to the pool where the water falls. Overhead, cables span the gorge twice.
The views alone would be worth a trip to this park, but there is much more to do. The buildings provide souvenirs, washrooms, and park service people who offer hiking or horseback trail rides. On weekends, you can take a thrilling canopy ride using the cables that span the gorge, or if you fancy something even more daring, you can go cliff-face rappelling. If you indulge in longer hikes or walks and wish to stay overnight, there is rustic shelter available for up to 30 people, and camping is also permitted. The restaurant menu features wild boar and young lamb.
Our friends decided that the canopy ride was an experience they needed. My wife and I volunteered to take pictures as they slid across to a landing spot on the other side. After donning helmets and gloves, and receiving minimal instructions, they climbed up to the starting platform. They were hooked to a wheel on the line and with a little shove, they came zipping over our heads, across the chasm, and safely to the far side. Changing to the other cable, they then traversed back to a landing platform near the service buildings. It was all over pretty quickly, but they were quite satisfied with their experience.
After a little shopping, we drove back through the Minas hills and then home, ending a very enjoyable day trip.
There are no admission charges for the caves, but there is a small parking fee at the park.



